Knots/Hitches/Coils to Practice

This is not a substitute for learning this hands-on with an experienced instructor.

Knots used in the Beginner Course:

Re-threaded Figure of Eight Knot (AKA Re-traced Figure of Eight)
Figure Eight on a Bight
Water Knot (AKA Tape Knot)
Overhand Knot (AKA European Death Knot)
Fisherman's Knot (AKA Grapevine or Barrel Knot)
Autoblock (see rappelling hand-out)

Knots used in the Intermediate Course:

Re-threaded Figure of Eight Knot
Water Knot
Figure of Eight on a bight
Overhand Knot
Fisherman's Knot
Autoblock
Prusik
Bachman
Mule Knot
Munter Hitch
Mariners Hitch
Clove Hitch

There are some common climbing knots that you can practice for the classes.

The Re-threaded Figure of Eight is the strongest and most common knot in climbing.  It is used to tie-in to your harness.  Above and below are two illustrations on how to tie it.

NEVER tie in using a carabiner as above.

The Figure of Eight on a Bight (above) is used to tie in to anchors among other uses.

The water knot, AKA tape knot, (above) is used to tie webbing together.  You start with a simple overhand and rethread it.

The Double Fisherman’s knot, AKA Grapevine, (above) is used to tie ropes, prussics, cordelletes, together.

The Clove Hitch (above) is an excellent adjustable hitch to tie-in to an anchor with.

The Munter Hitch (above) can be used in place of a belay device for belaying and rappelling.  It has other uses in self-rescue that are taught in the Intermediate class.  It is a good knot to know should you drop your belay device.

The Mariner's hitch (above) has the advantage of being releasable underload and is used primarily for rescue work in escaping a belay.. The Mariner's looks scary, but is safe provided you clip both protruding tails. The hitch will slip a bit when weighted. Follow these steps to tie a Mariner's. Step 1: Wrap a loop of accessory cord (or webbing), around an anchored carabiner. Step 2: Wrap the appropriate end of the cord around the other end four or so times, forming the hitch as pictured. On the last wrap feed the cord through the remaining loop, leaving it protruding somewhat. Clip a biner from the protruding tail to your anchor - this is your backup in case the hitch slips too much and fails. Then clip your load to the other end.

The Butterfly Coil should be used to coil a rope.  It also serves as a great way to carry it.  Coiling it in a loop (Mountaineer’s Coil) will put twists in a rope making hard to manage when climbing.

A link to an excellent animated knot site:

http://www.animatedknots.com/indexclimbing.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com