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Rocktober was another good climbing month. Hopefully the ‘crag Gouls and Goblins’ were all kind to you. The Gunks trip, expertly ‘sculpted’ by Frank and Jenn, went off without a hitch. The housing option was Sunshine Acres, our favorite hideaway in the Napanoch, NY area. We have been with S.A. for quite a few years, originally unearthed by Frank. We’ve seen their good times, their less than good times, and now they’re back up and running well, with many improvements, which allow us to feel comfortable and at home there. The association benefits both groups. What was worked out was the possibility of 3 nights lodging…Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. Many could indulge this, some only made it Friday and Saturday nights. Food, for a small additional fee, was included, and made everyone happy! Frank can sling the ‘hash’ around to everyone’s content, with more than a little bit of help. Friday, people climbed on their own terms, non-AMC. Saturday and Sunday saw AMC based pairings. Weather was great…yea! Food was great. Community…also great. Thanks to Frank and Jenn, and to everyone that made this trip stand out. Right after the Gunks, a rag tag group of us went down to Red River Gorge. A week of great weather followed. GREAT destination if you haven’t been(we saw other climbing friends down there), whether you prefer Sport, or Trad. Put it on your list. Other: last weekend we had our annual end of season planning meeting, to establish goals, and a calendar for next year. Working to present you with a 2025 that is filled with what you’ve come to look forward to, while exploring options to expand our capabilities. As I often say…if you wish to be more involved, let us know. With that, the formal AMC calendar year is a wrap. Thanks to everyone, from trip leaders, to leaders ON trips, to seconds, and everyone that made things come together…whether in big or small ways. It takes a village. Next up, is likely the annual Holiday Party… If anyone would like to contribute to this monthly newsletter please email your contribution to risouthcounty@gmail.com or bikeskiboy@hotmail.com. Contribution needs to be 200 words or less to fit in this newsletter format. A photo is helpful as well but not necessary. |
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2025
AMC Narragansett Climbing Trip/Event Schedule This is a synopsis of the upcoming AMC trips/events. See the link above for details. Trip announcements go out about a month before any trip date! The trips are all focused on multi-pitch trad and ice, except for the Rumney trip, which is sport climbing focused. 2025 Trip Classes, and Events
Schedule |
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Brian's Crag
of the Month, Deborah
and Edward Ames Open Space, Old Lyme, CT
With cold weather creeping in we need to find places to climb outside to hold off resorting to the rock gym. This little cliff in Old Lyme faces south and is sheltered from the wind so it works nicely as a place to climb when it is sunny and cold. There are not a lot of routes here but enough to catch the mid-day peak high temps. The routes here tend to be a bit hard for the grade. (Some sand-bagger put them up.) The rock is sharp and featured and the routes all bolted. The routes were put up in 2020 during the Covid lockdown. The test piece is Love in the Time of Corona a fun 5.11a that will get your forearms screaming. |
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Brian's
Unsolicited
Ice Climbing Gear Advice This time of year us climbers start thinking about kicking and bashing some ice. For those of you new to this sport, ice climbing is like Fentanyl. It is immediately addicting and can kill you. This addiction can also drain your wallet if you are not prudent about your initial score. If you go out and buy the latest-greatest equipment you will need to take out a second mortgage. Tools $600, Boots $600, Crampons $120, Gloves $120 =$1570. A better way to score for this addiction is to buy used gear (at least until you decide if ice is nice). It doesn't have to be the latest-greatest. In fact, I would advise against that. I'm not advocating that you buy old school straight-shaft tools with leashes, but I would advise buying some less aggressively bent tools without offset handles (like ones in photo). Unless you are going to be starting out climbing WI5 (sustained steep) ice a less aggressive tool is better for less than dead vertical ice and swings more like a hammer. The best places to find used gear is the Rock and Snow Annex in New Paltz, the IME consignment basement in North Conway, and EBay. However, if you new to this seek out the advice of a seasoned ice climber so you don't buy obsolete gear someone is trying to get rid of. There are specific types of boots (with front and back crampon welts), specific types of crampons (automatic bails, vertical points), and specific types of tools (leash-less). What about renting you ask? The only place you can rent ice gear is IME in North Conway. For what it would cost you to rent boots, crampons, and tools for a two weekends ($390) you can just about buy your own equipment and then if you don't love ice turn-around and sell it for sometimes more than you bought it for. What I found (in photo) with a quick surf on EBay and sales: Petzl Quark tools $300, Scarpa leather boots $200, Grivel crampons $50, new gloves $45 =$595. |
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This
Month's Climber Bio by Ronnie Schroeder - Dick Williams (circa late
1930s - present)
You still see Gunks climbing guide author, Rock and Snow founder, and area legend, Dick Williams climbing at the Gunks. Known for his days with the “Vulgarians”, a group of Gunks twenty-somethings in the 50s and 60s. Dick’s legendary ascents and antics made him and the Vulgarians legends. Their style included dropping acid while climbing, raving ‘til 3 am, and climbing Shockley’s Ceiling naked. (ed. Many Vulgarian climbs were renamed or abbreviated in later guidebooks due to their vulgarity and not to honor racists.) The Vulgarians formed in response to the self-appointed AMC, which set overbearing climbing rules and red tape in the 50’s and 60’s. Not accepting the controlling AMC rules, and just wanting to climb, the Vulgarians made their own rules. But they also drove climbing grades to new heights. This was before climbing cams and even nuts. Pitons were protection. Williams was on the first ascent teams for many Gunks climbs. They include Yellow Wall (5.11c 1966), City Lights (5.8- 1965), Modern Times (5.8+ 1964), the CCK (5.7+ 1968), Limelight (5.7 1965) and Fat City (5.10 1966), to many one of the best 5.10s in the Gunks and the Country. Along with owning Rock and Snow for 30 years, William published his first Gunks guidebook in 1972, which he updated in 1980, 1991, and 2004. Learn more at Rock and Snow BLOG. |
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Ken's
Training Tips As we move closer to the off-season, or at least a time of year when we typically find ourselves climbing inside, more than outside… A few things to remember: Except for the coldest days, there are chances to get outside year round. South/sun facing crags. Technical clothing allows us to accomplish a lot more, even if the day feels a little ‘adventury’, it still makes for a good time and a great story. Training off season…I recently was able to get on a ‘Kilter Board’…now, I FREELY admit that this is much more bouldering oriented(no ropes involved) but it’s pretty cool. The Kilter Board starts at VO(which doesn’t feel like VO), and offers options for anyone. Good for a change of pace if you’ve grown under inspired by the same routes. Or, if you need a warmup before your session(ropes or boulder). You will feel it the next day, so ease into it…some of those holds aren’t as incut as you might hope for. Stronger you will get! Like I indicated, the grades aren’t easy, but the climbing will make you stronger, particularly at the 40-50 degree overhang position(yes, it changes mechanically…but the lesser the angle, the higher the finish height!). PLUS…if you don’t look down on beanie wearing bouldering types, where there is raw strength, and precise movement to be gained…there’s a new gym in ‘town’…New Bedford to be precise. “Boulder Union”. A highly unique bouldering gym with a visual setting that you’ll not soon forget. Home base is a large, old bank, with interesting architecture, HUGE arching windows, original marble walls, and ALL the facilities you long for. Bouldering, training, lifting, etc., etc. Run by enthusiastic boulderers from our community, that are seeking to appeal to the hard chargers, the new climbers, and everyone in between. Check them out…at least on-line. VERY cool!!! Thought of the month…from Michaela Kiersch: “do you have areas of weakness, or areas that need more attention?” “because, negative thoughts are almost always 100% effective!” Make sure your internal dialogue promotes attaining your goals. In anything! |
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Rock
Gym Deals for AMC Members If you're new to our chapter or new to a local Rhode Island rock gym let the gym personnel know you're an AMC Narragansett member and most will extend you a discount on membership. For gyms like Rock Spot and CRG, that have multiple locations, that opens up day trips to new gyms, at no additional cost (but driving and time). Great for the gym season, if you want to try new routes, new holds, and new setters. |
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Join
the ClimbRI email group Most communication among RI climbers (including the AMC) is done through a Google Group called ClimbRI. There are currently just over 400 climbers in the group from RI, CT, and MA. |