Breakheart Pond Crag

Directions

This crag is in the middle of the woods in Arcadia Management Area. The closest landmark is Breakheart Pond hence the name.

Take Ten Rod Road (RT 165) west. Take a right on Frosty Hollow Road until it intersects with Plain Road. Cross straight into a small parking lot. Take the smaller trail (not the one with a gate) that heads east (right) from the parking lot. This will bring you to Newman Trail. Take a right. In a couple of minutes a mountain bike trail will head off to the left. There is a small cairn there that may or may not still be there. Follow that and right after the trail takes a sharp right down a hill there will be a stone wall. Right after rhe break in the stone wall go left (west) and bushwhack about a hundred yards following the stone wall until you can see the cliff. About 15 minutes or so.

Alternatively, take Ten Rod Road (RT 165) west. Take a right on Frosty Hollow Road until it intersects with Plain Road. Take a right on Plain Road. Park where the road ends at Breakheart Pond. Follow the trail north out of the parking lot for about a quarter mile until you come to an intersection with another trail. Go left for a few hundred yards and look for a mountain bike trail on the right. There is a small cairn there that may or may not still be there. Follow that and right after the trail takes a sharp right down a hill there will be a stone wall. Right after rhe break in the stone wall go left (west) and bushwhack about a hundred yards following the stone wall until you can see the cliff. About 15 minutes or so.


Routes/Protection

With only a few routes the cliff isn't a worthwhile destination for a full day of climbing but if you combine it with some mountain biking or a hike it is a fun diversion. The cliff is approximately 25 feet in height and 75 feet in width. The rock is granite and has both horizontal and vertical cracks. There are a couple of fun roof pulls. There are numerous trees close to the top of the cliff to set up top-ropes. Leading is possible with adequate protection on most of the routes. All of the routes shown below were led on gear.


Red - Heartache 5.8, Blue - 5.9 variation


Broken Heart 5.6


Heart to Heart 5.5


Heart Attack 5.9