High Rocks (AKA Podunk)

Directions
High Rocks is located in East Brookfield, Massachusetts and is about 50 miles from Providence. Depending where you are in Rhode Island get to RT 90 (Mass Pike) and take exit 9 to Rt 20 then north on New Boston Road. This turns into West Sturbridge Road. Carefully look for pole 43/45 and park there. There is only room for one or two cars. There is additional parking on South Pond Road at a boat launch site. Find the faint trail in the woods on the east side of the road. Follow that until the junction with another distinct trail/road. Take a left on the trail and follow to a clearing. Take a right at the clearing and follow to the top of the cliff.

Protection
Bring long webbing or a static rope to set up top rope anchors. There are a few routes that can be led with decent pro. There were bolts here but they were chopped by a self-imposed arbiter of climbing ethics.

Access
The cliff itself is on state land but the access is across private land. Please be respectful of that.

Routes

The cliffs are about 30 to 70 feet in height. The gneiss offers, for the most case, solid rock. Routes range from crimpy slabs to overhanging jugs, and a few cracks.. There is no conclusive information as to who first climbed many of these routes. What route history is known is detailed in the crude Podunk guidebook below.

Cliff (from left to right)


Competive World, 5.8


Red -Standard Route, 5.10a, Yellow- Unamed, 5.9


 
Photos


Joe Vaglio on Competitive World