Joe's Rock


Directions
Joe's Rock is a mile or so over the RI border in Wrentham, MA. From RT 295 (north or south) take exit 11 on to RT 114 (Diamond Hill Road) north. Follow that for a five or so miles until the road splits and take a right on RT 121 (Wrentham Road). Go for a mile or so and there is a sign and prominent parking area on the left.

Protection
Established routes are bolted . If you want to top-rope there are abundant trees at the top of cliff though some require long slings. Notice:
Someone chopped all the bolts at Joe's Rock sometime before 9 November 2002. It is almost impossible to set up a top rope on some of the climbs unless you have extremely long slings or static rope as there is little in the way of protection.

Routes
The cliff is about 35 feet high with no loose rock. The routes are bolted and were put up while on lead using a hand drill by Roger Brisson and Ozzie Blumet. Route beta is provided by Roger Brisson. Routes are described from left to right.

It's a Bargin (5.9) - There is a hidden pocket just above the roof that makes the climb easier if you use it. You can also place a small cam before pulling the roof (FA: Roger Brisson, Ozzie Blumet)

No Bargin (5.10b) - There is a spot to put a cam in before pulling the roof. It ends at the top of the Cool Route. (FA: OzzieBlumet, Roger Brisson)

Cool Route (5.8) - Use the lay back holds on the right before traversing left under the roof. (FA: Ozzie Blumet, Roger Brisson)

Sister of Mercy (5.11b) - straight up and fun (FA: Roger Brisson, Ozzie Blumet)

Mother Superior (5.12b) - (FA: Roger Brisson, Ozzie Blumet)

The Wave (5.?) Right of Mother Superior there are two bolts on top of the overhang to top rope the Wave.

It's All Buckets (5.8) A short climb of about 15 feet high on the far right side of the Wave. (FA: solo Ozzie Blumet)

Standard Route (5.8) - there are two bolts on the top you can use to top rope off. If leading you need a few big cams for the bottom.

Smokey Joes Cafe (5.10b) - this was the original rating. It starts at the base of standard route comes up the left facing corner. Has a good place for a cam in the corner before moving out right to the edge of the roof then pull the roof. A hold broke off just before pulling the roof. (FA: Roger Brisson, Ozzie Blumet)