Pettaquamscutt Rock (AKA Treaty Rock)

Directions
Map to get you close
Map for once you're there

Protection
The five eye bolts that were at the top of the cliff were chopped in 2001. You will need long slings or a static rope because the trees are a way back and the top of the cliff does not fall away at a 90 degree angle and substantial rope abrasion is possible. Extend your anchor over the cliff and belay from way back away from the cliff to avoid rubbing your rope on the rock. There are very few fractures in the rock so if you are interested in practicing leading you are farily restricted to a few cracks.

History/Guide Books
Climbers have used Pettaquamscutt for many years as is evidenced by the rusty piton found on one of the routes. A small guidebook entitled A Climbing Guide to southern Rhode Island was written by Gary Peterson in 1978 and is republished here with the permission of the author. The grades in this guidebook were established in 1978 and would be considered to be sandbagged my today's standards.

Routes

The main cliff at Pettaquamscutt Rock is approximately 50 feet in height and 60 feet in width. The rock surface is pock marked with mica and quartz nubbins that are very sharp. There are few distinct routes on the cliff. You can pretty much climb anywhere. Because of the rough nature of the rock routes are fairly easy but painful on the fingers.  Farther to the left (south) you climb the more you can increase the difficulty. There are also some smaller rocks in back of the the main cliff that provide interesting bouldering.

pettaquamscutt Rock