The five eye bolts that were at the top of the cliff were chopped in
will need long slings or a static rope because the trees are a way back
top of the cliff does not fall away at a 90 degree angle and
substantial rope abrasion is possible. Extend your anchor over the cliff and belay from way back away from the cliff to avoid rubbing your rope on the rock. There are very few fractures
in the rock so if you are interested in practicing leading you are
farily restricted to a few cracks.
Climbers have used Pettaquamscutt for many years as is evidenced by the
rusty piton found on one of the routes. A small guidebook entitled A Climbing Guide to
southern Rhode Island was written by Gary Peterson in 1978 and is republished here with the permission of the author. The grades in this guidebook were established in 1978 and would be considered to be sandbagged my today's standards.
The main cliff at Pettaquamscutt Rock is approximately 50 feet in height
and 60 feet in width. The rock surface is pock marked with mica and quartz
nubbins that are very sharp. There are few distinct routes on the cliff.
You can pretty much climb anywhere. Because of the rough nature of the
rock routes are fairly easy but painful on the fingers. Farther to the left (south) you
climb the more you can increase the difficulty. There are also some
smaller rocks in back of the the main cliff that provide interesting