Bear Rock

Directions

Bear Rock is located off the Mattabesett Trail in the Cockaponsett State Forest in Durham. It is 95 miles/1hr 40min from Providence. From the west take RT 91 Exit 15 to RT 68 east, to RT 17 south (right) to RT 79 south (left split) and an immediate left on Higganum Road. At the junction of Bear Rock Road go right and take the first left on Harvey Road. From the east take RT 9 Exit 9 to RT 81 north and go west (left) on RT 154 and take the immediate left split on to Candlewood Hill Road which becomes Higganum Road. After 6.5 miles take a right off Higganum on to Harvey Road. At .4 of a mile from the intersection of Higganum and Harvey Roads at an indistinct pull-off on the left you will see blue trail markers on the for the Mattabesett Trail. About 20 yards beyond that is a parking area for three cars on the right. Walk back (west) and follow the blue blaze trail on the north side of the road for ten minutes or so. When you see a rocky hill to your right look for a less traveled trail that goes right toward the rocks. Take that to the bottom of the cliff. Finding it is the crux.

Description

The cliff is 70 feet at its highest. It faces east and is slow to dry after rain. It is gneiss-quartz conglomerate (sharp) rock. The bolted routes are on one face and consist of mostly juggy overhanging routes. All of the routes are well bolted and have bolted top anchors. It is actually easier to lead these routes than top-rope them due to the overhangs and location of anchors.

Routes left to right

Pepper Spray 5.11, FA Shylo 2 bolts to anchor
Symbiotic Seven, 5.7+, FA Christopher Beauchamp 4 bolts to anchor
El Oso Cocainomano 5.11a FA Juanjo Vazquez-Caballero 4 bolts to anchor.
Memories, 5.11, FA Christopher Beauchamp 3 bolts to anchor
Recollections, 5.12a, FA Christopher Beauchamp 4 bolts to anchor
Rainbows and Unicorns 5.10b, FA Christopher Beauchamp 4 bolts to anchor
Shit Ticket, 5.11b, FA unknown, originally done in early 90s and chopped 4 bolts to anchor
Chossmosis, 5.11d, FA Christopher Beauchamp 6 bolts to anchor
Chosstacular, 5.10c, FA Christopher Beauchamp 6 bolts to anchor
Natural Born Salmon Killer, 5.12b, FA Greg Syloski
Color of Aluminum 5.12/c/d, FA Chris Moyle
Double Check 5.12b/c, FA Chris Bridge
Garbagistan, 5.11c, FA Christopher Beauchamp 4 bolts to anchor
Killing Me 5.12a, FA Chris Bridge
Morozyvo (AKA Posie's Porpoise), 5.10b, FA Christopher Beauchamp 5 bolts to anchor
The Revenant 5.13a, FA Dan Bates
The Chaser 5.12b/c,FA Christopher Beauchamp