High Ledge

Directions
High Ledge is located in Connecticut about 8 miles from the Rhode Island border not far from Lantern Hill. From Rhode Island take Interstate 95 south to exit 92 (North Stonington). On the exit stay straight for about a mile until you hit a traffic light. At the light take a right on to Route 2 west. After a couple of miles, you will go straight through a traffic circle. At the next traffic light take a right across from a fire station onto Rocky Hollow Road. This brings you to Main Street in North Stonington village. Bear right on Wyassup Road. Follow this for about 3 miles. Look for a small brown boat launch sign on the left. This is Wyassup Lake Road. Follow this to the boat launch (0.8 miles). About fifty yards after the boat launch you will see a road/trail on the left with a metal gate on it. Park on the side of the road here but do not block the fire road. There is only room here for three vehicles so carpool and park across from the boat launch if necessary. This is the Narragansett Trail on state land in the Pachaug State Forest. Follow this road/trail. When the road takes a sharp bend to the left follow the blue dot trail that is straight ahead. Follow this for about 1/2 mile, past a gas line cut until the trail splits. It is marked by a blue trail split marker (photo below). Take the trail to the right up a small hill and down a swampy valley. You will see the cliff from there.

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   This cliff was infrequently climbed back in the 1990s and early 2000s. It was revisited lately and new routes were cleaned and put up on the unclimbed left side. The cliff ranges from 30 to 65 feet in height. The rock offers juggy, vertical to overhanging routes. There is lots of loose rock so beware. Most of the better quality and steeper routes are on the right side of the cliff. It is where Tough Schist, a frequently done 5.10, is located. Some harder routes can be established here. There are a few crack systems on the left end that look like they would provide practice leading but the rock quality here is not good.  
   Pistol Whip, the 5.8+ roof on the main cliff was led in 2005 (first known ascent) but the rock is schisty and the gear placement at the crux is at your feet, so it is a potential ankle breaker. Most routes here were top-roped. Due to the lack of climbing and the quality of the rock many routes are now fully bolted, and the crag should become more popular. The names of a couple of the routes (Pistol Whip and Trigger) were unnamed and names were made up for reference in the Rock Climbing Connecticut guidebook.  In the Known Route History below, all First Ascents (FA) refer to a route that has been led ground-up no falls and is improbable that it was previously led. Otherwise, it is noted as a top-rope (TR) ascent. If there is doubt that it is a FA then FRA (First Recorded Ascent) is used.  A system denoting quality of one to three stars is used.  

Many climbers assume that the bolts are someone else’s responsibility.  Your safety is ALWAYS your responsibility when you are climbing outside. Climbing is inherently dangerous. Fixed hardware is installed and maintained by individuals who pay for the hardware out of their pocket. I advise you to always inspect a bolt before trusting it and review your anchor before lowering off. If you know of any bolts/hardware in RI or nearby CT in need of replacement report it to me and I will probably know who put it there and/or who is qualified to address the problem.

Routes from Left to Right

Bait and Schist 5.8. Rolodex 5.8. Schist Eating Grin 5.8. Schist andd Giggles 5.6. Fulla Schist 5.7-

Trench Run** 5.7. Interceptor 5.9+

Schist Happens** 5.7

Pistol Whip*** 5.8+  Jen Snyder on Pistol Whip May 2004 Trigger 5.6.  Schist Faced 5.6 Kelly Cowan on Tough Schist April 2006

 

Tough Schist***, 5.10. La Dura Schist 5.12a

Known Route History
Bait and Schist 5.8, FA Jay Adams 2024
Rolodex 5.8, FA Jay Adams 2024
Schist Eating Grin 5.8, FA Jay Adams 2024
Schist and Giggles 5.6, FA Jay Adams 2024
Fulla Schist 5.7-, FA Brian Phillips 2024
Trench Run 5.7, FA Jay Adams 2024
Interceptor 5.9+, FA Jay Adams 2024,  Shares the last bolt and anchors with Schist Happens.
Schist Happens 5.7, FA Brian Phillips 2024
Pistol Whip 5.8+, FRA Brian Phillips 2004, Led this trad in 2004, probably top-roped before that, possibly led. Trad pro is at your feet and the rock is not good at the roof. A fall could result in a broken leg.
Trigger 5.6, FA Brian Phillips 2024, Top-roped many times before. Arete that can be started a variety of ways depending on how hard you want to make it. Shares first bolt with Schist Faced.
Schist Faced 5.6, FA Brian Phillips 2004, Possibly top-roped before that.
Roller Blade 5.10+, TR Ken Nichols 1999. Ascends the roofs on the left toppng out on the pointed blade of rock.
Tough Schist 5.10, FA Brian Phillips 2004, 7 bolts to anchor. Possibly top-roped before that.
La Dura Schist 5.12a, TR Brian Phillips 2024, Top rope. Has anchor bolts and a bolt with a leave-it biner for a directional. Overhanging fragile rock.