Joe's Rock


Directions
Joe's Rock is a mile or so over the RI border in Wrentham, MA. From the south: RT 295 (north or south) take exit 11 on to RT 114 (Diamond Hill Road) north. Follow that for a five or so miles until the road splits and take a right on RT 121 (Wrentham Road). Go for a mile or so and there is a sign and prominent parking area on the left. From the north: RT 495 take exit 15 on RT 1A north towards Wrentham Center.  Turn left on RT 121 and Joe's Rock is a few miles on the right. Rock is a short way down the trail. 

Protection
Established routes were bolted but someone chopped the bolts at Joe's Rock sometime before 9 November 2002.  Some routes and anchors have been re-bolted.  Don't expect bolts to be there Inspect routes first  If you want to top-rope there are abundant trees at the top of cliff though some routes require long slings or static rope and are difficult to set-up.

Routes
The climbable section of cliff is about 35 feet high leading to a scrambling slab. The rock is chossy and mossy in places although the established routes are pretty solid.  The routes were bolted while on lead using a hand drill by Roger Brisson and Ozzie Blumet. Route beta is provided by Roger Brisson. Routes are described from left to right.  I've updated the original route beta in italics. 

It's a Bargin (5.9) - There is a hidden pocket just above the roof that makes the climb easier if you use it. You can also place a small cam before pulling the roof (FA: Roger Brisson, Ozzie Blumet)  There are three bolts to an acnhor.

No Bargin (5.10b) - There is a spot to put a cam in before pulling the roof. It ends at the top of the Cool Route. (FA: OzzieBlumet, Roger Brisson)

Cool Route (5.8) - Use the lay back holds on the right before traversing left under the roof. (FA: Ozzie Blumet, Roger Brisson) There are five bolts to an anchor.

Sister of Mercy (5.11b) - straight up and fun (FA: Roger Brisson, Ozzie Blumet)

Mother Superior (5.12b) - (FA: Roger Brisson, Ozzie Blumet)

The Wave (5.?) Right of Mother Superior there are two bolts on top of the overhang to top rope the Wave.

It's All Buckets (5.8) A short climb of about 15 feet high on the far right side of the Wave. (FA: solo Ozzie Blumet)

Standard Route (5.8) - there are two bolts on the top you can use to top rope off. If leading you need a few big cams for the bottom.  Either this is very sandbagged or a hold(s) broke off as it is more like a 5.10a.

Smokey Joes Cafe (5.10b) - this was the original rating. It starts at the base of standard route comes up the left facing corner. Has a good place for a cam in the corner before moving out right to the edge of the roof then pull the roof. A hold broke off just before pulling the roof. (FA: Roger Brisson, Ozzie Blumet).  Since the key hold broke this is more like 5.11. There are four bolts to an anchor.  You want to stick-clip the first bolt.